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At the new Nobu’s, you place yourself in Kidera’s hands. Literally: He stands at a counter above your seat and forms perfect pieces of nigiri sushi, from deceptively straightforward salmon to luxe uni.

BY IAN FROEB // Dec 22, 2023 |

These nigiri are just one part of Nobu’s omakase dinner, a multicourse menu Kidera selects for you, from composed sashimi dishes to simply cooked fish to crunchy tempura.

Kidera himself might chat with you a little, though as he explained on my visits, he isn’t used to the contemporary idea of chefs interacting with diners. (George, in addition to helping his father prepare the food, acts as your host and guide.) For the most part, he is as intensely focused on his work, as the Kobe, Japan, native has been since he opened the original, pre-IHOP Nobu’s in 1987.

Noboru Kidera, preps blue fin tuna from Mexico for sashimi at the sushi bar of Nobu’s in the Delmar Loop on Thursday, Feb. 2, 2023.